Dartmoor before breakfast
The alarm clock was not my favourite person, but Haytor at sunrise proved worth every yawn.
The alarm clock wasn't my favourite person this morning, but a 5:00am arrival at Haytor was worth every yawn. I found myself the perfect perch on top of Haytor and settled in to watch the sunrise at around 5:30am. It wasn't the most spectacular sunrise Dartmoor has ever produced, but watching the day begin from one of the moor's finest viewpoints is never a disappointment.
By 5:40am it was boots on and away I went, descending past Haytor Quarry before climbing towards Smallacombe Rocks. The narrow, stony path was accompanied by an enthusiastic welcoming committee of nettles and brambles, all determined to slow me down!
The trail eventually led me to Becka Brook, a picture-perfect spot with its stone bridge and gently flowing river. It looked ideal for a picnic, but breakfast would have to wait. I pressed on along what felt like an endless climb towards Hound Tor, passing the fascinating Medieval Settlement on the way.
Reaching the summit of Hound Tor, I was rewarded with breathtaking views in every direction. Visibility was crystal clear, the sky was a brilliant blue, there wasn't a breath of wind, and I had the place completely to myself. Then again, at 6:40am that's perhaps not too surprising! After a well-earned cuppa, I continued along the road to Jay's Grave before turning left onto the long path towards Natsworthy Manor.
Crossing onto open moorland, I climbed steadily to the memorial dedicated to the crew of a 49 Squadron RAF bomber that crashed here in 1941—a poignant reminder of Dartmoor's history.
By now the sun was beginning to make its presence felt, and the cool morning had given way to a warm, sweaty climb. The grassy path led me onwards to Grimspound, home to one of Dartmoor's finest Bronze Age settlements with its 24 ancient hut circles.
I claimed one of the stone circles as my breakfast table and enjoyed an impromptu meal in complete peace and quiet. It was just after 8:00am, and the silence was almost tangible. Moments like that are why I love Dartmoor.
After a relaxing 20-minute break, I headed across Hamel Down before descending the steep track into Widecombe-in-the-Moor, arriving just before 10:00am. Naturally, such an achievement deserved rewarding with an ice cream—purely for hydration purposes, of course!
Ten minutes later it was time for the final push. The climb out of Widecombe was long and steep, but step by step I reached the top before turning towards Top Tor.
The finish line was now in sight. Through the shimmering heat stood Haytor and Saddle Tor, looking as magnificent as ever. After crossing Saddle Tor, there were just 500 yards left to the car.
One thing that really stood out was just how dry Dartmoor had become. Places I'd expected to be boggy were completely baked hard by the recent weather. But, as if guided by some strange magnetic force, I somehow still managed to find the one bog with water in it! Thankfully, I escaped without disappearing knee-deep into it and made it safely back to the car.
A fantastic early morning hike in near-perfect conditions—warm, dry, blue skies, a light breeze, and some of the finest views Dartmoor has to offer.
